BLINK AND YOU MIGHT MISS IT. From afar, the acre or so of rock popping out of the British Virgin Islands’ North Sound Inlet is a mere blip—about half a soccer field—seemingly barren. But keep those eyes open, and the details emerge.

First, a two-story half-circle structure. Then, the red telephone booths: one in the back, one on the dock out front, both imported from England and refurbished into actual working order. Then a crop of spindly palm trees, a small beach with hammocks and chairs, and a dive shop. You might also see the fish tank as you approach, but if it’s 5 p.m., you’re more likely to spot the massive tarpon converging near the dock for mealtime. (They have no teeth, but sometimes, in their excitement, they gum all the way up the arm of the chef who feeds them.)

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